Some hikes are about reaching the summit. Others are about everything you feel along the way. Hiking Mount Zas on the Greek island of Naxos was definitely one of the second kind, and it reminded me why I love getting lost in nature.
Mountains have always drawn me in. Maybe it’s the silence. Maybe it’s the feeling of leaving the world behind, even if only for a few hours. Or maybe it’s that moment when you finally reach the top, look around, and realize how small your everyday worries really are.
On Naxos, surrounded by whitewashed villages, turquoise water and sun-drenched landscapes, stands Mount Zas, the highest mountain in the Cyclades. And somewhere between its rocky paths, endless views and the wind brushing against my face, I found my most cherished memory of Naxos.
A Different Side of Naxos
When you imagine a Greek island, you probably picture beautiful beaches, charming white houses and long afternoons by the sea. Naxos has all of that. But what makes it so special is how much there is to discover beyond the coastline.
Mount Zas rises 1,001 meters above sea level and gives you a completely different perspective on the island. It’s named after Zeus, king of the Greek gods, and is said to be the place where he grew up. There’s something magical about hiking somewhere with so many stories hidden in the landscape.
How to Get There
To reach the starting point near Agia Marina, I took the public bus from Naxos Chora. It goes through Filoti, the nearest village, and has a stop at Agia Marina. It only runs a few times a day, so plan ahead and start early. Make sure to also check the last bus to take you back – when I was there, it was leaving Filoti around 4pm, which is rather early.
Making New Friends
When I got off the bus, I noticed I wasn’t alone. Four others had made the same plan as me. Shortly into the hike we started chatting, and it turned out they were a group of friends from Canada. Since Canada is a wonderful destination on its own, the conversation flowed easily.
I usually do these hikes alone, but I enjoyed the company, and it made the day a little more special. That’s the thing about traveling solo: making friends is easy if that’s what you want.
The Ascent
One thing to know about Greece is that the paths aren’t always easy to spot. Most of them are poorly marked, so I usually rely on an online map to make sure I’m going the right way. This hike was no different. At one point there was a fork in the path and we all stopped to discuss which way to go. When hiking in the mountains, it’s safe to say the right way usually leads up, even if it hurts and you really wish it would lead somewhere else 😊
The path up Mount Zas is rocky, with stretches that demand your attention. As you keep climbing, the paths get narrower and steeper, though you’re still mostly walking on grass and shrubs. The higher you go, the more the landscape opens up, and near the top you’re surrounded almost entirely by stone. The hills on the horizon seem to fold into one another, and the villages below get smaller with every step.
At some point, you stop thinking about how far you still have to go. You simply become part of the moment: the sound of your footsteps on the stones, the warmth of the Greek sun, the breeze that arrives just when you need it. It’s a kind of peace that’s hard to explain to someone who hasn’t experienced it.
Reaching the Top
Just before you get there, you’ll probably wonder why you thought climbing a mountain during a Greek island holiday was a good idea. It’s hot. It’s dusty. There’s no wine bar at the end, no beach, no white sand, no dip in the clear water.
But then you arrive. You close your eyes for a moment, slow your breathing, and when you open them again it hits you: you made it. You find a spot to the side with a nice view, sit down, and spend long minutes staring into nothing and everything at the same time. The views are so beautiful that the pain of the last few hours is instantly forgotten.
This is exactly why I keep pushing myself to hike: the rush of emotions once you get to the top, and then the hour or so of doing absolutely nothing, because there’s nowhere else you need to be. Nowhere else you want to be. Just the sky, the wind, and the feeling of being exactly where you’re supposed to be.
Hiking Back Down With a Full Heart
Eventually, it’s time to leave the summit behind, and somehow the walk down feels different. The mountain hasn’t changed, but something in you has. Maybe it’s the satisfaction of having made it. Maybe it’s the fresh air and movement, or just the simple joy of spending hours outdoors. Or maybe it’s that wonderful feeling of doing something that makes you feel alive.
Usually, once you’ve reached your goal and turn back, the experience feels over before you’ve even finished walking. Not with Mount Zas. I decided to walk down the other side of the mountain that will later take us around the Zeus Cave.
It was a great choice, but be warned: the first part of the descent is rather challenging and better suited to experienced hikers. You climb down over stones and boulders, and good shoes are a must. It was also the moment I realized I actually had some hiking experience. My Canadian companions fell behind me very quickly, so we said our goodbyes and went our separate ways.
The Most Beautiful Views
As the trail winds toward the valley, the views that open up are possibly even more spectacular than the ones from the top. Soon you’re walking on a marble path that looks and feels incredibly ancient, and every couple of steps you have to stop to take it all in: the mountains in the distance, the valley right beside you, the blue sky, the dramatic summits all around, the green of the trees and shrubs. If I had to pick a single moment from the whole hike, this would be it.
Zeus Cave
Soon after you reach the valley, you’ll find the Zeus Cave on your right-hand side. It’s easy to walk straight past it, but if you look back, it’s hard to miss. Visibility inside is very low, so unless you bring a powerful torch, there’s not much to see (your phone light won’t cut it). Still, it’s worth ticking off your “to see” list. According to legend, this is where Zeus grew up and took refuge during his years on Naxos, hiding from his father, Kronos.
The Last Steps
Continue downhill from the cave and you’ll soon reach the Aria Spring. It’s a nice spot to rest: the trees give shade, and you can refill your water bottles before the last stretch. The rest of the way is smooth and uneventful. Soon after the spring, you’ll spot Filoti village in the valley below, and you know you’re nearly there. A glass of wine while waiting for the last bus of the day is a pretty nice reward after a hike like this (see, I got my wine bar after all).
Practical Tips for Hiking Mount Zas
If you’re planning to hike Mount Zas during your visit to Naxos, here are a few things worth remembering:
Starting point: I’d recommend the route I took, starting at Agia Marina. The bus drops you off right there, beyond the village. The opposite direction starts near the Aria Spring, and you’d first have to walk there from Filoti. It also means the boulder section near the end becomes a climb up instead of down, which can be really tough.
Difficulty: Moderate to challenging, depending on your route, the weather and your hiking experience. Expect rocky terrain and wear proper hiking shoes. No flip-flops or floppy sandals.
What to bring: Good shoes, water and sunscreen. In high summer, definitely a hat too. A snack for the top is a nice bonus.
Best time to hike: Spring or autumn, to avoid the summer heat. I did the hike at the end of May, and it was about 5-7 degrees Celsius cooler near the top than at the coast, so about 20 degrees, which was very comfortable.
Timing: Leave yourself plenty of time to enjoy the climb, and keep the bus schedule in mind so you’re not rushing to catch the last one. The way down took me about an hour, but I was walking fast (remember, I left my Canadian friends behind 😊). I also spent around an hour just sitting at the summit, so I definitely wasn’t too rushed to be able to enjoy the hike, but still. My bus from Chora left around 11:00 am but I’d recommend the earlier one around 9:00. That gives you more time to explore Filoti after your hike.
Final Thoughts
Looking back, Mount Zas was the part of my Greek Island Hopping trip I keep coming back to. Not because it was the easiest day or the one with the best photos (okay, the views were pretty great), but because it gave me everything I love about hiking: a bit of effort, a lot of quiet, and that feeling of being exactly where you’re supposed to be. If you’re visiting Naxos and have a spare day, I’d really encourage you to trade the beach for the mountain, just once. Pack your good shoes, catch the early bus, and take your time at the top. And if you meet a few friendly Canadians along the way, even better 😊
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